So here I am in Moscow, 32 years after my last visit. Needless to say much has changed - I am not fifteen anymore, my weight is slightly more than eleven stone and the USSR doesn't exist anymore. So what of Russia today? Based upon my extensive three days of research here are the findings:
- Russians have the dirtiest cars in the world. It's early spring here, but the there is little snow left on the ground, so the cars are a little mucky, but no one seems to wash them. One of my Russian contacts tells me that a car wash in Moscow costs about $25 so no wonder they don't bother. Sounds like a market opportunity to me. Although when I suggested this, my Russian friend said it would be difficult to undercut the market price once you have bribed local officials and paid off the mafia!
- It's very expensive here - a beer is $15
- The Metro is outstanding and one of the few cheap things here, a single ride is about 75 cents. It's clean, the corridors are well lit and the trains run frequently -- I have not had to wait more than a minute for a train. Some of the stations look more like museums than stations with ornate ceilings, chandeliers and sculptures.
- Red Square is stunning - St. Basil's cathedral is magnificent and its in much better shape than on my last visit in '77. The Lenin Mausoleum still stands on the square by the Kremlin Wall and I am sure Valdimir Ilyich is still inside. The Gum department store stands opposite the Kremlin. This is where the biggest changes have occurred. In '77 there was nothing for sale and inside it looked like a dilapidated market. Now it is stocked with all the top brands and the the decor puts Harrods to shame. At night, thousands of lights decorate the facade and it looks like Disneyland.
- Young Russian women dress very well - the skirts are short and the heels high, never-mind the ice on the footpath.
- The Lada, formerly the staple of the road over here, is disappearing - if you can peer through the grime that covers every vehicle you find the same brands in any other country - Fiat, Ford, Renault, Citroen, Toyota and quite a few Jaguars and Range Rovers.
- the food is interesting, some of my colleagues sampled Beaver for dinner and were paying the price the next day! Yes there is a McDonald's right outside the Kremlin so the progress is not all good.
- the people are great - very friendly and not very Communist - they have high tech phones, iPods and aspire to better quality of life. Unfortunately the "crunch" is being felt here as well. Falling incomes and rising inflation have put a damper on the decade long boom.
All in all its been so cool to visit places I last saw when Brezhnev was Soviet leader and Elvis was still alive.